Steve Calderwood's - "From the Grapevine"
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Just One Question: Can't We All Just Get Along?!

By Steve Calderwood

One of the by-products of writing a column is that I get a constant stream of e-mails from wineries, corporations, suppliers and others touting new products, releases or just making things up to have something to write about.

So I figured, if I've got to deal with all this brouhaha, I might as well share it with you. Here, then, are some of my favorite releases from this week.

"It's grape vs. grape as chardonnay takes on sauvignon blanc!" OK, this one intrigued me. Was this a case of domestic violence or perhaps (be still my beating heart), naked grape mud wrestling? No, it's just that Foster's Wine Group is upset that New Zealand sauvignon blanc is now outselling Australian chardonnay -- in Australia.

What I found particularly funny is that Foster's Wine Group is currently one of the world's largest wine companies. They own brands such as Beringer, Lindeman's, Penfolds, Rosemount and Stag's Leap, among many others. They are, at the same time, trying desperately to become the world's smallest wine company by selling off every winery they own after mismanaging them beyond belief. Foster's finally is figuring out that "Foster's, that's Australian for beer, mate" wasn't just a slogan.

Getting back to the grape-on-grape action (I'm getting excited again): It turns out that since the time Foster's has been buying lots of wineries, around 2004, chardonnay sales have fallen from $420 million to $312 million. While over that same period, sauv blanc sales (mostly from New Zealand) have shot up from $54 million to $345 million.

As Foster's was a huge organization with infinite resources (until they bought all the wineries), you know they would hire the brightest minds in the business. Here's how one of their spokesmen retorted: "There are trends and fads -- inevitably sauvignon blanc will go and then it will be something else's turn, but chardonnay has always been there, it has a pedigree because it is grown all over the world and the whites that are seen as the best in the world are chardonnays grown in Burgundy."

Is this guy on drugs? He thinks that sauv blanc is a fad? Then he goes on to say that the French really know how to make chards. What about the Aussies? The article goes on to say they're holding focus groups on how to improve the chardonnay experience. I'm glad they're getting out of the business.

The second article that really caught my attention brings the current economic environment into focus. Just this week I was informed that my name had cleared on three different mailing lists allowing me to buy cabernets and pinots ranging in price from $80 to $250. Thanks a lot. When I first signed up for them last year, I was informed it would be five to eight years before I would clear the list. I guess someone isn't buying their allotment.

But that obviously isn't the situation for the French. Bernard Magrez, owner of a lot of Bordeaux vineyards plus many other wineries all over the world, has some advice on how to spur sales in Bordeaux. First he has some advice for his competitors: "Magrez advises loss-making producers of lesser wines to get out of the business and pull up their vines before its too late." On how to increase sales, he argues that Bordeaux needs cooking schools, top-class suites in castles, helicopter rides over the vineyards and picnics among the vines with a gloved butler and a Rolls Royce to boost its image in the minds of wealthy consumers. What planet is he living on!?

Oh, yeah, he's worth half a billion dollars and is the 82nd richest man in France. He's got another 81 people to sell to. With that said, let's move on to our own slightly more modest wine events of the month.

On Wednesday, Oct. 21, there are two events (I hate when they do that). The first is the Hot Tin Roof's monthly wine-& food pairing with six courses and six wines. The cost is $32 and it starts promptly at 5:30 p.m. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling 296-7701. I attend these religiously due to the quality of the food and wine and the remarkably low price. (However, I'll have to miss this one as their sister property is the one that scheduled a wine dinner on the same night.)

Yep, Little Palm Island's is having its first wine dinner of the season and this one is not to be missed. Why? First of all, the wines featured are all from Ramey Wine Cellars and all of them have been rated 90 points or above. Then there's that little issue of the menu. After a passed hors d'oeuvres reception, one is treated to lobster salad, followed by chipotle braised pork belly, followed by pepper crusted venison loin, followed by Hudson valley duck breast, finishing with a warm wild berry compote. The cost for this gastronomic love fest is $125, an incredibly reasonable price (you'd have a hard time getting breakfast there for that). On top of that, locals get a 15 percent discount meaning a total cost of $106. If we get just 10 people from Key West to sign up, they'll provide transportation from the Ocean Key House to Little Palm and back for free; no worrying about the long drive back after over-imbibing the outstanding Ramey wines. George Staikos, the company's national sales manager, is hosting the event; reservations can be made at 872-2551. Call! I want the free ride!

On Halloween Eve, Oct. 30, the American Red Cross has its "Taste Something Red" event in Tavernier, at the Taster's Grille & Market. It features wines from Transylvania and nonalcoholic Bloody Marys. It's $20 per person; call 296-4033 more info.

Until next time -- wine a bit, you'll feel better.