Sunday, November 15, 2009

Two new restaurants have sprung up on Duval Street in recent weeks, offering locals and travelers two distinct dining experiences.

For those with a more discerning palate looking for a quaint, intimate setting, Blackfin Bistro offers cuisine in a cool new environment. Bistro owners Tommy Quartararo and brothers Michael and Joseph Castellano traded in the bright paint colors and plastic patio furniture of the Salsa Loca Mexican restaurant that formerly occupied the space at 918 Duval St. for a more refined, subdued setting.

Two blocks down the street, new sports bar Bilmar Station features a more laid-back experience with casual fare like mozzarella sticks, onion rings, nachos, chicken fingers and burgers. The eatery also is expanding its dinner menu to offer more entrees and local seafood dishes.

While patrons won't find the decor at Bilmar Station much changed from its days as Crabby Dick's, Blackfin Bistro's owners have worked nonstop to transform their restaurant, including building new banquette seating inside and mahogany tables in the garden patio, in addition to painting, installing the new bar and redoing the kitchen.

"We saw the promise of the place," Michael Castellano said. "We pretty much went full throttle to get the place open in six weeks. It's been intense, but it's been fun. We built everything ourselves from scratch."

Also found on the patio is picnic table-style seating for people who want to mingle and linger over drinks. The tropical foliage, white tablecloths and candlelight create a nice ambiance for dinner now that sunset occurs so early this time of year.

The restaurant takes its name from the blackfin tuna commonly found in the waters off the Florida Keys. Appropriately, the restaurant makes good use of the abundant selection of seafood in many of its dishes. Lobster and stone crab will be served seasonally. Also available are mussels prepared in several different ways.

"There's nothing better than a big bowl of mussels in the middle of the table -- like a big bowl of warm popcorn," Castellano said. "Bistro restaurants are supposed to be like a community event, sharing a bunch of foods."

French-born chef Tony Poulain has infused his heritage and expertise into several items on the menu, including the steak au poivre, nicoise salad, escargot and croque monsieur.

But it's the burgers that have been selling like crazy, Castellano said. They include a portobello mushroom "burger" with avocado, a grilled yellowfin tuna burger, and the diablo burger, made with goat cheese and diablo sauce.

Breakfast is another popular offering and is available until 5 p.m.

The Castellano brothers and Quartararo call the restaurant "a great collaboration" among friends. The three grew up together in New York and have been friends since they were 7 years old.

Michael Castellano worked his way up in the restaurant industry in New York City right after high school. He was studying to be an actor, but made better money at the restaurant. He went on to work at several prestigious restaurants, including working under well-known chef Mario Batali, before eventually helping to open a bistro in Chappaquiddick, Mass., where wealthy, affluent patrons such as Bill and Hillary Clinton are known to dine.

Quartararo also worked in New York City before moving to Key West more than three years ago, working at both Pisces and Santiago's Bodega.

"We had been talking about doing our own place for a long time," Quartararo said.

They had the knowledge and contacts, so they finally decided to make the leap after the space opened on Duval Street. Castellano moved to Key West in August after a 14-year hiatus since his last visit to the island.

The trio said they hope to bring "New York-style restaurant service to the Keys without the attitude."

By staying open late, they also hope to become a popular place for other people in the service industry to hang out after they get off work.

Bilmar Station General Manager Jason Wilson said the sports bar also wants to become a gathering place for people in Key West.

"We're trying really hard to be local-oriented," Wilson said. "It's a place on Duval Street they can come and not pay tourist prices and still have good food and have a good time."

Drinks are 20 percent off for all locals all the time, and owner Jerry Freshko wants to make the place available to local nonprofits for fundraisers and also for private parties.

"We are very interested in giving back to the community," Wilson said.

There are seven TVs throughout the property for plenty of sports viewing, and live music on the popular balcony overlooking the street will be added in the coming weeks.

"The balcony is a great place to people watch," Wilson said.

amswary@keysnews.com