Steve Calderwood's - "From the Grapevine"
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Libbey is Evil and Must Die -- And a Few More Thoughts

By Steve Calderwood

OK, as you probably can tell from the title of this week's article, this is another one of my "rant" columns. I haven't done it for a while, so, please forgive me (or just call into The Citizen's Voice.)

Last night I went out for dinner with a couple of friends (I won't reveal the name of the restaurant for reasons that will become obvious.) We ordered a nice bottle of Rioja to go with the meal and then the unthinkable of unthinkables was placed in front of us -- the Libbey wine glass. What's a Libbey wine glass, you ask? They're those thick, heavy wine glasses that have no right to existence.

Just let me say to the fine dining restaurateurs out there, if you use these abominations in your establishment, quit it! A nice oversized crystal glass with a thin rim greatly enhances your wine service and tells your customers that you value your wine as much as your food. Besides, they aren't that much more expensive.

And, oh, by the way, here's rant number two. If your wine list looks like a stroll through Winn/Dixie, you're cheapening the food you're putting on the table. Having Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio on your list is the same as saying, "We take Sysco right out of the box and heat it up before serving it to you!" Nobody is going to come to your restaurant specifically because you're the one restaurateur who had the wisdom to put Kendall-Jackson chardonnay on the list (which you're charging $35 for and anyone can pick up at Albertson's for $9.)

A restaurant's wine list is as important as its menu. Hopefully, you put a lot of thought into your menu in order to differentiate your establishment and please your customers. Well, your wine list is exactly the same thing. I can't tell you how many times in my wine sales escapades I've heard from beverage managers, "Oh, we have to carry known brands, that's what our customers expect." The only thing that tells me is that your customers expect safe food and that you're unwilling to take the time to train your staff.

Which brings me to rant number three -- train your staff! Most true fine dining restaurants will have a pre-meal meeting where the chef will talk about that day's specials so the staff can answer customers' questions and guide them in the right direction. However, most restaurants won't teach their staff diddly about the wine list. Once a week, taste them on a couple of your moderately priced bottles and at the pre-meal, recommend a bottle that would complement those flavors. You're the expert and if you share that knowledge with your staff, you'll dramatically increase your wine sales and greatly increase your customers' satisfaction.

Finally, rant number four, teach your staff proper wine service skills. Teach them that if they come to work without a wine key, it's just the same as if they're barefoot. Teach them the proper way to open a bottle. And finally my favorite peeve, teach them that if they fill everyone's glasses to the rim in order to get the host to order another bottle, you really hope they're going to enjoy their next job, 'cause this one is over.

I must say that one reason I enjoy hosting at the Bagatelle is because they emphasize all of the above points and it really reflects on the dining experience. I ask every customer as they leave, "How was everything this evening?" and I am often told that it was the best meal they've had on the island. By the same token, when I can still find a "fine dining" restaurant in this town that causes me to make all of these points, well, that's the last time I spend my cash there.

OK, I'm done for this week, but I just wanted to share this one last thought with all those service workers out there -- if your restaurant uses those damned Libbey wine glasses, take a moment every so often to break one or two of them. Maybe then your GM will figure out that crystal really isn't that much more expensive. Thanks. So, on to our local wine events.

First up, on Saturday, Dec. 5, from 6 to 8 p.m., Historic Cigar Alley in Duval Square will be having a Gurka Cigar and Port Wine Tasting. What a great way to start the evening, unless of course you happen to be working, like I will be. The cost is $10 and you can call 294-2224 for more information.

Then, Michael's will be having their monthly "15 Wines for $15" tasting on Monday, Dec. 7, from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Most of the wines will cost $15 or less and you get a $15 discount on any case purchase. This time they're even going to have gift wrapping available.

Next, the Tasters Guild will be having its next wine dinner on Tuesday, Dec. 8, at 7 p.m at the Shor restaurant in the Hyatt on Front Street. This one is costing $55 including tax and tip and will be outstanding, the menu looks remarkable. For those of you not yet members of the Tasters Guild, you missed a killer tasting at the Strip House. Great wines and outstanding food in a superb setting. Call Terry at 292-4004 to join and/or reserve your seat for the dinner.

Finally, the Hot Tin Roof will be having my favorite monthly event, which this time will be a Big Bordeaux Wine Pairing on Wednesday, Dec. 16, at 5:30 p.m. The cost is $32, including tax and tip. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling 296-7701.

That's it for this week, so until next time -- wine a bit, you'll feel better.