Florida Keys Business
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Buon appetito
Onlywood features wood-fired pizza, authentic cusine and real-deal accents

When Davide Cremascoli or Alessandro Piazzo answers the phone, "Buongiorno, Onlywood," the accent leaves little doubt as to the authenticity of the restaurant's Italian fare.

Onlywood Pizzeria Trattoria, with its seemingly obvious address of 613 Duval St., is tucked discreetly down an inconspicuous pathway. Despite the elusive little spot that formerly housed the restaurants Opera and fin, Onlywood's prices are more accessible to everyone.

"Our pizza is at the heart of this place," Cremascoli said last week from the restaurant's intimate courtyard.

It's also at the heart of the restaurant's name, Onlywood, which refers to the wood-burning ovens used to cook the pizza in about 60 seconds at a 1,000 degrees, Cremascoli said.

"The ovens were imported from Naples, and we serve 'Napoli-style' pizza," Cremascoli said, explaining that the pizza that originated in Naples is the traditional, thin-crust pizza cooked with handmade dough in hot ovens.

And although their pizza style is that of Naples in southern Italy, Onlywood owners Cremascoli and Alessandro Piazzo (there's that reassuring authenticity again) grew up together near Milan in the northern part of the famously boot-shaped nation. (Milan would be up by the thigh above the boot.)

The pair arrived in the United States 13 years ago, always involved in the restaurant industry as cooks, waiters and managers. They lived in Telluride, Colo. and then spent a decade in New York City restaurants.

Onlywood is their first venture into ownership, and things are going well so far, with the pair already being featured in a recent New York Times article that also mentioned Onlywood Chef Alberto Ricci, who was lured to Key West by his New York friends.

"We moved to Key West in August and we opened in October," Cremascoli said. "So far things have been pretty much word-of-mouth or online reviews. People do have some trouble finding us."

The address is 613 1/2 Duval rear, and is accessible via the small alleyway that leads between Antonia's restaurant and Onlywood, and ends at Lobos, the outdoor gazebo-shaped eatery that specializes in wraps.

Onlywood is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, offering a three-course lunch for $15.

The rest of the menu focuses on homemade pasta dishes with prices that average about $18 per dinner entree, Pizzas are about $15 and Onlywood has an extensive wine list and offers a 20 percent local discount. A free bottle of house red wine is served Tuesdays and Wednesdays with a $25 food purchase.

"Things are going really well," Cremascoli said, adding that Onlywood serves a different clientele than the other two higher-end Italian "ristorantes" on Duval Street. "There's room for everyone. Key West really is like no other place."

mmiles@keysnews.com

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